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Everyone dressed a hundred times better
A Pensacola teenager
W. David Marx grew up in Pensacola, a sister city to the small mountain town of Gero, which is how he ended up on that exchange at seventeen. Almost no Americans had an experience like it, and he promptly fell in love with the country.
What he saw
On the streets, he kept wondering how everyone was dressed so well, and the consumer society looked far more robust, at a scale that seemed enormous. All of it broke the message he had grown up on from MTV: America was the coolest country in the world, the Soviet Union collapsed because people wanted blue jeans and Michael Jackson, and Americans were effortlessly the most stylish people on Earth.
Cultural leadership turned out not to be quite true. Something was going on in Japan, and almost no one had seen it, because almost no one was there to report on it.
The tourism numbers
That was still the case when he moved to Tokyo in 2003, when Japan drew about five million foreign visitors a year. In the early 2000s, three Japanese people took a trip abroad for every foreigner who visited, and a friend flying in counted as the big event of the year. In 2011, only six million foreign visitors came. By 2025, the count had reached forty-two million.
How do sister city exchanges work?
The sister city movement in the United States grew out of President Dwight Eisenhower's 1956 People-to-People initiative, which encouraged ordinary citizens to build ties across borders. A city pairs with a counterpart abroad, and schools, clubs, and civic groups run exchanges between them. Teenagers often stay with host families for a few weeks over the summer. The program became the independent nonprofit Sister Cities International in 1967.
Why did outbound travel outnumber inbound?
For decades Japan's strong yen made it expensive for foreigners while making foreign trips cheap for Japanese. The yen reached about 80 per dollar in 1995, one of its strongest levels ever. The Japan National Tourism Organization counted about eighteen million Japanese travelers going abroad in 2000, against roughly five million foreign arrivals. Inbound arrivals first passed outbound departures in 2015, for the first time in 45 years.
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